Posterous theme by Cory Watilo

Why are we here?

We left New Zealand with a very clear statement about why we are going overseas.  We had been working in corporate life for a while (Greg has been and Accountant/Finance Manager and I have been at BNZ for 4 years) and wanted to work in a development organisation using the skills that we developed over our careers (short as they may be).  We thought that if ever we wanted to have an adventure we had to go now.  We have not family, no mortgage, nothing holding us down.   

If I take one step back, though, I guess I should say that when I married Greg it was an unspoken vow to do something like this when I said 'i do'.  

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I have always had a passion for travel and adventure and new things, but it was Greg's more specific vision that was clearing about using business (in his case accounting, finance, and strategic investing) to serve the Kingdom of God. So we both bring something to this table that has been laid our before us.

So what are we actually going to be doing here?  We are spending the year working at Across, living in Nairobi but spending time in South Sudan where all of its operations are located. Greg was brought into a leadership position to improve the finance system.  This means improving the reporting that Across does, build the capability of the team, and make strategic recommendations to the Board and Leadership Team.  I will be working with both Greg and the Organisational Development team to understand and improve some of the core processes in Across, as well as assist with some organisational strategy.

However, I sneaking feel that this question - why are we REALY here - will be something that develops over the coming year.  Maybe it will be in the pages of this blog, or maybe it will be in the future that only upon reflection we can see this time clearly.  

The butcher the baker and the Ugali maker

Before I left New Zealand, Greg gave me an Annabel Langbein cookbook for my birthday that I had wanted for ages.  It was one that specialised in not only using local seasonal ingredient, but had beautiful pictures of perfectly cooked meals.  It made me want to move to the South Island and grow all of my own produce and have a rustic table to eat off every day.

 

This is such a stark contrast to the women that I see cooking here.  How can these two worlds of cusine even exist on the same planet....  food is considered art in one and survival in the other.

 

The butcher

 

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All facilities are pretty basic here in Boma, and the slaughterhouse is no exception.  Buasilla is on the rise here.  We are told it is either from the lack of any sanitation in the slaughterhouse or that the meat inspector went to another village and hasn't retuned so no one has been checking to see if the meat is infected (in most villages all meat is inspected and it is burned or buried if it is unhealthy).  I am stoked to know that a program in Across is working to build basic facilties around the slaughterhouse - like a place to put the cow other than on the ground, a place to wash your hands, and a fence to keep people from wandering in to get their meat.

 

The baker

 

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Boma bread...delicious.  While bread is common in South Sudan, the bread from Boma is world famous.  Every morning the dough gets cut into little balls and fried - we eat it with peanut butter.  Yum!

 

The Ugali maker

 

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Anyone who has been to East Africa knows ugali.  Love it or hate it (I am in the latter category), it is served with every meal.  These women are working in the Congoleese refugee camp in Lasu in the restaurant that was started.  It is hard work as it is maize meal and flour just mixed and mixed into a semi-hard pile of 'stuff'.  It is like pallenta but with a bit more of a cement flavor.   

 

Boma - ahhhh Boma!

Boma is our favorite village that Across works in.  It is impossibly remote...accessable only by plane when the rains come.  That means that for about 4-6 months of the year the only way to get in and out is by UN flight.  

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 The natural landscape is stunning.  The sunsets are picture perfect.  The vilage is complicated.

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There is a prevailing tribe in the village, and then there is a second tribe who is a minority.  Major violence shut down the Across operations for 2 months this year, but things are calmed down now.  The SPLA and the police have big compounds in this village, as this was the first village to raise the flag of the SPLA durning the civil war.

The people of the village are vulnerable - the most vulnerable we saw in South Sudan.  They have no food security as everything is flown in or grown outside the village.  The eggs we ate at breakfast came off a plane from Kenya.  There is a constant tension of impending unrest - whether from cattle raiding, police crack down, generational fighting, or simply domestic disputes.

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Our week here gave us more inspiration than any other place we have been...and hence more photos here than anywhere else!

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'Refuges just aren't what they used to be'

When we returned to the Across compund after visiting a Refuge camp, I sat down and had a cup of tea with some people who work at Across.  They asked me what I thougth of the camps, and I told them that I thought they were amazing - that they tore down my preconceived ideas of refugee camps and that I felt in some ways they were model African villages.

That is when this comment emerged - refugees just aren't what they used to be.  

Both of these men are survivors of the civil unrest in Sudan decades ago.  They fled their villages when the fighting came and joined the exudus into Uganda/Congo.  These are the days before the UNHCR (United Nations High Commision for Refugees).  Refugees were dropped in a field with a machette and a hoe.  In the rainy season they might get a tarp.  They had to build their lives from scratch, finding a way to work in the surrounding villages for food and seeds.  They had to find ways to make a shelter, but this was often impossible.  The lucky children would find a school run by the Catholic church and get their school fees waived.  While they could go to school, they had to learn the local language and adapt into the system.  

They stopped their stories there, but implied thing which they could not telling me.  With no rights in the community, no protection from wild animals, no medical assistance, no food assistance, no organisation fighting for them, they did whatever it took to survive but witnessed horrible events. In spite of this, both men went on to go to university, find jobs, raise families, and now work for Across in their newly independent country.

Times have changed.  In the internationally supported refugee camps there are schools for children in their local languages, free clinics, medical supplies, food, training on how to grow food, seeds, community education, sanitation and building materials for houses.  There is constant assesment and re-assesment of the refugees, and several organisations monitering the situation both in the camps and back in their home countries.  

And yet the complaints from people in the camps come flooding in if any of the programs do not work.  The constant demand for more and more to be given to them is difficult for organisations to manage.  There are also growning concerns with 'dependency syndrome' of the refugees, their motivation/ability to integrate into society, and their desire make the effort to create their own futures for their families.  

I appreciate the challenge that this raises from the people of the older generation, the ones who survived and thrived with such little support and now manage these camps.  I can also appreciate that times have changed, refugees are a major international issue, and the world is no longer standing by and letting displaced people suffer without supporting their basic needs.  

After this conversation I was left with the feeling I get so many times here - what is the solution?!  I walked away as I usually do having the sense that solution are not what I can uncover, but rather an appreciation for the complexity.  

 

 

Our first refugee camp - Lasu

Even though the land around Yei is green and firtile during rainy season, when we went to visit a 'refugee camp' I somewhat expected to drive to this place that was a blowing desert with houses made of blue tarps and sacks of UN food in the middle.  My expectations were again embarssingly shattered when we saw the 'city' of 8000 living in someways a model African village.  We will just take you through our day... 

 

First off, the road to Lasu is bad.  It is located 2 hours from Yei and about 20 kms from the boarder of Congo.  While some people (myself included) scoff at NGOs parading around in big land crusiers in developing countires, I have now humbly eaten my words.  This camp could never be reached without one.  It is not uncommon for the staff to attempt to reach the camp, only to be either stuck on the way, find a truck stuck which you cannot get around, or have the road flooded with no access (and that is with a big land crusier!)

 

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The people living here walk from Congo to escape the Lords Resistance Army (LRA).  I have begun to understand that  people in this region just move around all the time to escape violence.  Sudanese were once refugees in Congo and Uganda, now Congolees and Ugandans are refugees here.  All are trying to escape rebel fighting of different causes.  It just goes around and around.  If you could take away national boarders what you would have would be nomadic people moving aroud to find a peaceful place to live.  Now you have refugees with no home.  

 

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With the UNHCR (United Nations High Commission for Refugees) working through organisations like Across to facilitate livelyhood in these camps, the people here almost have a better chance at 'life' than in the surrounding village.  They are given a home kit to use in building their mud huts, they are given food but also taught how to farm and raise animals (such as creating fish farms like the ones in the pictures), given a free clinic, supported in starting small businesses, and all children have access to free education.

 

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They, like most refugees in this region, will eventually move back home.  Life without being 'home' is never really ok.  They will wait until they hear reports that the LRA has moved on to begin the sometimes equally difficult process of returning home after years away.  This cycle is just life is in the region. 

 

 

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Generational dancing....

My favourite place so far is a place called Boma.  Close your eye's and imagine a rural village in Africa.  Okay so you have just imagined a place called Boma.  We got to spend a week visiting this remote village....  More on Boma in the coming weeks, but here is a video of what we stumbled across as we were walking into the village to buy some batteries.  Generational dancing. A pretty good surprise!  

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A Reason to Celebrate

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We arrived into Yei for the 10 year celebration of Yei Teacher Training College, one of the Across projects.  A celebration with huge hype for a student teacher training school....I didn't really get it.... what's the big deal? 

 

Quite quickly I realised what the big deal was.   Firstly, it was started 10 years ago, right in the middle of a civil war with bombings and gunfire a sometimes daily occurance.  Secondly, it was started in collaboration.  Not just some foreigner's idea, but a dream that came from the local community with land donated from the local church, funding from various overseas NGO's, and implemented by Across.  When you think that no one actually knew when the war would end (it had be going for 30+ years at that point) it is impressive to see the tenacity to build something with the future in mind.  

 

Not only that, but this small and understated teachers training school (from a western's perspective) is the best teachers training college in all of South Sudan.  A college that graduates about 100 students a year compared to a population in South Sudan of over 8 million.  Not a good ratio! And with over 90% of teachers in South Sudan having NO formal training, you can see the importance a teachers training school.  All of this has taught me that in order to think big you have to start small.  After 10 years of hard work there is momentum and a bright future.

 

So there was real reason to celebrate.....and what a success it was.

 

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It was so typical for an African ceremony -  starting 2 hours late waiting for the Guest of Honor to arrive,  then 4 hours of speeches, songs, and dances, and lots of people running around finishing the last details (up to about an hour after the scheduled start).  

 

However, my favorite part of the day was the marching band.  The YTTC students decided that they must form a marching band for the day.   We all know that no marching band is a real one without a kit-out of marching band equipment - from hats to horns to batons.  The only problem was that they have never played brass instruments before.  After 6 months of trying to get up to snuff for the big day, they ended up hiring the Congolese in the area to form the brigade.  It was quite the sight...

 

 

 

Second Stop - Yei

Our small MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship) flight took us from the crowded airpot in Juba down closer to the boarder with Uganda and Congo to a place called Yei (pronounced Yea!)  Yei is an hour flight on the small plane from Juba, and a feels like a world away.  I am not a fan of these small planes especially when there is a massive lightning storm catching up to us....I was so relieved to touch down on the bumpy muddy runway just as the raindrops began to fall

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Yei - gone are the tarmac roads, buildings, shops and hotels.  Here are the dirt roads (yip - not one sealed road in the city), market stalls with not much food in them, and mud toukuls (huts) for houses. 

 

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First stop - Capital city

When 'Sudan' came into my minds eye as we took off from Nairobi, I thought I would see deserts, mud huts and cattle camps with tall Dinka tribesmans.  I never really considered that the surrounding regions of Uganda, Kenya and Congo are all expansively green half of the year, and that of the countless tribes in this country the majority are not cattle herders. Green, lush and fertile soil with the White Nile meandering around, South Sudan looked more like the Garden of Eden before any people moved in.

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Landing in Juba is a bit of a different story.  The heat and humidity of the capital is the first thing that you notice, but soon after you get over the weather, it is the number of Land Cruisers that captures the attention.  As soon as the Independence was announced here, there was daily convoy's kilometers long of brand new cars coming in from Uganda.  Was this the spoils of war, incentives for people to work in the Government, rich NGO's spending up large, congratulations for independence, or simply the only way to travel on the washed out roads of South Sudan?  It is complicated, but whatever the case, the sea of white land cruisers were overwhelming.

The second thing we noticed was the number of posters and banner's congratulating the country on independence.  Simply put they were everywhere.  Any place there was space there was a message of hope for the coming nation, appreciation to the 2.5 million fallen martyrs, and reminders of the long journey they have taken to get here.

It is hard to ignore that Juba is growning at a mindblowing speed, faster than it can cope (and apparently the fastest growing city in the world - only becase there was next to no-one there 5 years ago). Massive UN/NGO compounds have been put in the middle of mud huts, hotels that are simply containers with fans installed are popping up in the market places, and most roads are simply foot paths with cars on them.  Rapid progress of the new capitol is good, but it is hard to not see see this simply becoming another major african city, haphazardly grown from village on the Nile to massive urban sprawl.  

 

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Juba is where all roads in South Sudan meet.  It will grow to have its own character and its own rugged vibe soon enough, but for now it is simply the place to be in South Sudan (and that is not always a good thing!).

 

South Sudan - our very brief introduction

After one week in Nairobi we were told that we were going to be spending a month visiting all of the locations of Across in South Sudan.  South Sudan is officially the newest country on the planet!  On July 9th they gained independence from North Sudan after two generations of a very bloody civil war.  

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Since about 70% of the population is under 40 years old and 50% is under 15 years old (rough estimates), most people do not know how to exist in a peace-time world.  

How do you go from a war mentality - survival instincts, lawlessness, today-centric, brutality - to a peace mentality -  planning for the future, having a future for your kids, cultivating sustainable food sources, building permanent structures, law based society, and just generally living life in a community??  This is the challenge of South Sudan, and Across is at the core of this journey (being the oldest NGO in South Sudan).

Its an exciting transition and fasinating to be a part of. The eyes of the world are here and you can feel it.  Currently NGO's are taking most of the responsibility as the government is just being formed...roads, schools, airports, electricity, food, camps for internally displaced people, churches...you name it an NGO or country is paying for it.  Countries are pouring money in, the UN is out in full force, and any NGO that is anything has an office in Juba (the capital). 

If I could summarise the vibe of this place when we first landed it would be pride in securing freedom, hope for a better future, and deep doubt about how to overcome the seemingly insurmountable challenges. As we travel through this inspiring and beautiful country, talk to the people of South Sudan, see their situations, and hear their stories we are building a picture for us of why we are actually here in Africa.